Georgian wines are growing in popularity at a rapid pace. Lizzy O’Riordan heads to Tbilisi to find out why

The day I arrive in Tbilisi, Georgia, the non-stop protests outside the parliament building reach their 200th day. This is a response to the ruling party Georgian Dream’s announcement that it will be halting the EU integration process until at least 2028.

At the same time, however, Georgian winemakers seem more eager than ever to forge strong relationships with Europe, Asia and the UK, diversifying from their traditional export markets of Russia and fellow ex-Soviet countries.

The reason is partly political: Georgia and Russia have a complicated and turbulent relationship, with widespread animosity felt among many. Yet it’s also very practical: Russia has been unpredictable in its trading relationship with Georgia, most notably through the 2006 export ban. “We don’t want to be dependent on only one market, especially when it’s unstable,” Irakli Cholobargia, advisor to the chairman at the Georgian National Wine Agency, explains over a masterclass held in an ex–Soviet wine factory.

Instead, Cholobargia continues, Georgia wants to put its focus on building up a more diverse export market, which includes the UK. This is not to say that Russia isn’t an important market – it still makes up approximately 65% of all Georgian wine exports – yet for many winemakers this is because they feel there is no other option.

Shota Natroshvili, export manager at Teliani Valley in the Kakheti region, explains: “We are highly interested in the UK, US and Japan but we also have to export to Russia because we need the money to work on other export markets.”

TRENDS

At present, the Georgian National Wine Agency is investing the equivalent of more than £4m a year into promoting Georgian wine internationally. The big three grapes are Saperavi, a grape known as ‘black wine’ thanks to its intense deep-red colour, and the white grapes Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane, which are regularly used to make both dry white and qvevri amber wine.

The latter two grapes are bottled as single-varietal wines but also often blended. As Lado Uzunashvili, head winemaker at Vazisubani Estate in Kakheti, says: “These two varieties were born for each other, not only micro-chemically but also micro-biologically. They are in an eternal love story.”

In addition, there is a growing passion for the white grape Kisi, which is experiencing a revival after nearly becoming extinct in the Soviet era, during which it was neglected for more bulk-friendly options. Uzunashvili says: “Kisi regained its popularity almost instantaneously after its reappearance.”

The same is true – though perhaps to a slightly lesser extent – of the Khikhvi grape, which was also brought back from near extinction. Uzunashvili believes this variety is especially good for creating modern-style dry white wine.

EXPORTS

Giorgi Margvelashvili, executive director of large producer Tbilvino in Kakheti, says that in terms of a UK audience, Saperavi and Kisi stand out.

As for Kisi, Margvelashvili adds that it is especially popular when vinified using the qvevri method, in which the grapes are buried in their skins in clay vessels, producing “an amber wine with expressive aromas of dried apricots, herbs and nuts”.

Sometimes, this qvevri method can lead to rustic tastes that international palates find overpowering. With that in mind, there is an ongoing conversation in Georgia about pivoting to fresher styles.

At Tbilvino, as we taste the new collection, surrounded by the deep green Caucasus mountains, head winemaker Luka Guruli says the winemaking team have been removing Saperavi from the skins after three months (traditionally six months) to avoid bitterness and high tannins.

With a similar goal, Natroshvili from Teliani Valley explains that they have been creating an amber wine made from four white grapes in stainless steel rather than qvevri to create an easier taste.

SUCCESS

Overall, it seems that Georgia’s mission to expand its export markets is working. Initially perhaps, Georgian wines were relegated to niche independent shops or speciality restaurants. However, that’s no longer the case.

Margvelashvili says that Georgian wine exports to the UK increased by 72% in 2024, with the wines from Tbilvino available in M&S, Majestic, The Wine Society and Laithwaites. Waitrose now stocks the Gorgeous Georgia range from Teliani Valley estate.

Likewise, Morrisons has recently introduced a Georgian Saperavi to its Block Range and discounter Lidl also featured a Saperavi from Bediani winery at the end of last year. In 2024 the sales of Georgian wines grew by 200% in M&S and 66% at Majestic.

It’s an incredibly exciting time for Georgian wine: the efforts from the Georgian National Wine Agency not only benefit Georgia but also buyers and consumers in the UK, who get to experience the pleasure of the bold reds and the stone fruit ambers coming from this small but impressive country.