Although Serbia’s winemaking history can be traced back to the Romans, with Marcus Aurelius Probus planting the first vineyards on the hills of Fruška Gora, its more recent history, especially during Yugoslav times, betrayed this proud past. Now, however, a modernisation process that began some 25 years ago is finally bearing fruit.
It is a familiar transition, albeit with certain novelties. Modern winemaking approaches are being applied to native varieties. New wineries, many drawing upon family legacies, are planting vines and revitalising old ones. The relative youth of many vineyards means that tangible improvements are noticeable from one year to the next. Quality now trumps volume.
Underpinning it all is a burgeoning domestic wine scene. In contrast to many other countries, wine consumption continues to grow. Serbian wines are now at the forefront of any self-respecting wine list, a stark contrast to the past, with an emphasis on pairings with traditional dishes. Consumers are more knowledgeable and discerning. Meanwhile, a thriving community of oenologists, sommeliers and experts – many of whom have spent time abroad – is catalysing improvements on multiple fronts.
Many Serbian winemakers strive to demonstrate their abilities in relatable ways. Through international varieties and blends resembling their French counterparts, they lend themselves to easy comparison. Serbian Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs have earned international recognition. For this is a new world proximate to the old, running on similar and often identical lines of latitude.
Whilst such wines have a role to play in communicating to the outside world what Serbia is capable of producing, it is native varieties that are driving the country’s renaissance. Their relative neglect means that there is still much to be learnt. Though the acquisition of such knowledge can feel slow, from harvest to harvest and plot to plot, the growth of a broader community means there are more experiments to learn from. An openness to innovation and knowledge bodes well for the future.
There is particular excitement around the country’s white wines, notably Grašac (more commonly known as Italian Riesling, distinct from the Rhine Riesling), Tamjanika (belonging to the Muscat family), Morava (a grape developed domestically), and Smederevka (renowned for its high acidity). While a compelling freshness is a prime selling point, the versatility of each is being explored through barrel ageing, cuvees and sparkling wines.
Prokupac is the country’s signature red variety, thriving in the foothills of the Kopaonik mountains in central Serbia, whilst increasingly finding a home elsewhere. An emphasis on lighter, more elegant styles has broadened Prokupac’s appeal to consumers eager for fresh and fruit-forward reds. The time is ripe for Prokupac’s emergence.
In parallel, a fledgling natural wine movement has been recognised by Michelin-starred restaurants internationally. As in nearby Slovenia, a dedicated group of winemakers is guided by minimal intervention principles, organic and biodynamic practices, and an emphasis on indigenous grapes.
A pertinent question is how Serbian wines can better penetrate international markets where price competition is intense. Wineries are having to find more compelling sales propositions in a context where many other lesser-known wine countries and regions are building their brands around a sense of novelty. Serbia’s wine regions – Fruška Gora, Župa, Sumadija, Negotin, to name but a few – need to better convey a sense of place and heritage through storytelling marketing approaches. To facilitate this process, Belgrade is now home to one of the largest wine fairs in Europe, Wine Vision by Open Balkan, the fourth edition of which will take place this year from 22 to 25 November.
Through a signature wine showcasing their prowess, many wineries are also trying to enhance their individual reputations. Though often several times more expensive, primarily due to their limited quantity and dedicated methods, it is hoped their overall product portfolio will benefit from improved brand recognition and the viticultural advancements the pursuit of excellence demands. It is a shrewd but not always straightforward strategy, one that can distract from a winery’s core business.
The winemaking renaissance Serbia has experienced has enhanced the sense of what is possible in the coming decade or so. It is a virtuous circle, the achievements of some driving others forward. With an expanding domestic market helping provide a buffer against international uncertainty, there are firm foundations for the continued evolution of the Serbian wine scene. It is certainly a country worth keeping an eye on.
Ian Bancroft is a writer and former diplomat based in Belgrade, Serbia. He is the author of a novel, ‘Luka’, and a work of non-fiction, ‘Dragon’s teeth – tales from north Kosovo.’ He has written for Glug Magazine, Wine Spectator, Full Pour and others.
Top photo show Virtus Winery (credit Vladimir Miloradović)
