Portugal’s range of genetic diversity, it’s kaleidoscopic patchwork of soils and climate variation once again took central stage at Wines of Portugal’s annual tasting event in London, where Dirceu Vianna Junior MW took attendees on a whistlestop tour of the country’s off-the-beaten-track wines.
This type of masterclass, which centres the country’s range of underexplored grapes, terroirs and styles, has become a highlight of the Wines of Portgual’s annual event.
This year’s selection ranged from a 100% Trincadeira from Alentejo (unusual in its pure varietal form), a low-pressure gastronomic fizz made from the sometimes-divisive Baga, and a handful of uber-expressive and in vogue lighter-style chillable reds, such as Arvad Negra Mole 2024 from the Algarve (12.5% abv), Quinta do Crasto Altitude 2022 (12%) and Textura Vinha Negrosa 2021 (12.5%).
Unlike many Old World wine nations built around a handful of internationally recognised grapes, Portugal’s advantage comes from the breadth of its genetic diversity – and Junior makes a compelling case for the country’s ability to offer up something genuinely distinctive.
Baga, for example, has earned a reputation as one of the country’s most misunderstood varieties. As Junior explained, the grape is capable of producing “the very, very best wine in Portugal” but equally “the very worst” – a paradox that is largely due to historical vineyard practices rather than the variety itself.
High yields and heavy extraction once led to tough, austere wines, but producers are now taking a lighter approach by reducing yields and handling the grape more gently. As a result, Baga is increasingly delivering fresher, more approachable styles while retaining the structure and acidity that underpin its aging potential.
Another myth-busting wine that challenged perceptions came via the Falcoaria Vinhas Velhas 2022 made from Fernão Pires, which is the most planted white variety in Portugal with 11,000ha. Received wisdom is that the variety only produces simple wines.
“That’s simply not true,” Junior said. “I think this perception comes from the fact that Fernão Pires is mainly produced in Tejo, which is associated with volume production because there are three large coops there. However, there are a lot of smaller producers also producing some amazing wines from low yielding old vines, with real concentration and aging potential, and a creamy character which is almost like a certain style of Austrian Gruner.”
On the topic of lighter reds, Trincadeira was discussed as a high-yielding red grape that has been long overlooked because producers either harvested too early (producing vegetal wines) or too late, resulting in heavy styles. Modern approaches focused on earlier picking and restrained oak use are now delivering lighter, more elegant expressions aligned with current consumer trends toward freshness and drinkability.
“There is a lightness of touch now,” Junior explained, noting that growers are planting more of these previously neglected varieties as market tastes evolve.
With around 250 native grape varieties to choose from, Portugal clearly has much to recommend its wines as producers increasingly lean into uniqueness rather than imitation. Portugal’s strength lies not in competing directly with established regions such as Burgundy or Rioja, but in its diversity, if only education can keep up.
Climate plays a key role too. Portugal combines Atlantic freshness, Mediterranean warmth and continental heat within a relatively small geographical area – conditions that allow dramatically different wine styles to emerge across short distances.
While this complexity is still under-communicated to UK consumers, yesterday’s masterclass went some way to proving that the opportunity is there. If retailers are willing to tell the story, they might find that Portugal not just an alternative category, but a loyalty driver.
