As the ubiquity of hazy pale ale gives rise to interest in stouts and porters, Emma Inch takes a walk on the dark side

If the only tool you have is a hammer,” wrote American psychologist Abraham Maslow, “it is tempting to treat everything as if it were a nail.” In the world of beer retailing, this might translate as: “If the only cans you have on your shelves are hazy pales, it’s tempting to treat every customer as if they were a hazy pale lover.”

But many drinkers prefer their beer that little bit darker. It’s certainly true that the craze for haze shows no sign of abating and, for many, these accessible, juicy refreshers have acted as a gateway into the exciting world of modern beer. However, New England IPAs are not the only show in town and, if we’re open to learning lessons from the on-trade, the fact that stout grew its volumes by 18% there last year (CGA) should give us plenty of food for thought.

As Guinness puts the final touches to it’s new, Covent Garden-based brewery, due for completion in October this year, others are getting in on the stout and porter act. Bermondsey (and Croydon) darling Anspach & Hobday launched London Black, a session-strength version of its flagship porter, on nitro draught in 2021. So well received was it that, in the first three years, it fuelled an increase in their production volume by nearly two-thirds. To the delight of many, in March the beer was launched in cans, complete with widgets to provide that characteristic surge and draught pour. It’s certainly not an exact copy of Guinness but, at 4.4% abv, it retains the drinkability of its Irish cousin.

But nitro stouts aren’t the only dark beers currently capturing drinkers’ attentions. “From classic dry stout, to historical brown porter, dark mild, dark lager, milk stout, imperial stout, black IPA, dunkel, rauchbier, Belgian dubbel and quadrupel, and many more darker styles,” says Jules Gray, founder of Sheffield’s Hop Hideout craft beer shop, “it certainly seems that the choice is widening and that really grabs customers’ imagination and palates, too.”

And many would agree with her. Fans of dark beer have been heartened to see the hashtag #BIPAcomeback – celebrating the resurgence of black IPAs – trending on social media recently. Examples such as St Austell Brewery’s Proper Black (6%) and Elusive’s Double Midnight Oregon Trail (8%) manage to combine a chocolate malt base with a full-bodied bitterness that wouldn’t be out of place in a piney IPA straight from the west coast of the US.

SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE
And there’s something for every palate with dark beer. Pastry stouts, such as those produced by the likes of Unbarred and Yonder, are often strong, sweet and enhanced with adjuncts or extracts to recreate flavours found in chocolate bars or puddings, whereas a black lager such as Utopian Brewery’s Czech-inspired Cerné Speciální (5.9%), sits at the other end of the dark spectrum, with a dry finish that leaves you immediately needing another sip. And then there’s the joy of extra-special beers such as Burning Sky’s Monolith (8%).

“Vatted beers [like this] are unique,” says Gareth Harries, co-owner of Beer No Evil in Worthing. “[It’s] a beer that has been slowly fermented in red wine barrels and is reminiscent of an aged Bordeaux red wine that goes wonderfully well with cheese and charcuterie. We even had a customer buy one specifically to trick his friends at a wine tasting.”

What’s more, even though for the past half century us Brits have decreed that continental lagers – and more recently those hazy pales – are the beers to quaff in the sunshine, there’s no reason why darker beers should be confined to when the nights begin to draw in.

“Stout is for life, not just for Christmas,” proclaims Dave Hayward, co-owner of award-winning beer retailer A Hoppy Place. “A good, high-drinkability stout can be incredibly refreshing in all weathers. After all, you don’t see Guinness off the pumps come March.”

Harries suggests keeping them refrigerated so people can enjoy them cold. “Look for hoppy and lighter varieties and make sure fridge space is labelled so people know where to look,” he adds.

And Hop Hideout’s Gray has more advice on how you might tempt people to venture a bit further than those hazy pales. “Research and explore the depth and breadth of darker beer styles out there. Customers will really engage with discovering beers and flavours and enjoy trying them.”

And, as with all beer, telling a good story is key.

“Get across as much as you can on socials and instore about flavour, brewing process, background of the beer style and brewery,” Gray continues. “Tastings, whether a free little pop-up with small samples, or ticketed events with breweries, are great to encourage and engage customers.”

So maybe try putting that hammer down for a while, and perhaps see if you can tempt a few more drinkers over to the dark side.