This year’s London Wine Fair (LWF) Icon Tasting shone a spotlight on just how global and fiercely competitive Chardonnay has become as a category, with entries stretching from Tasmania and Essex to Burgundy and Central Otago. As the results come in however, the question on everyone’s lips remains: who took home the top accolade?
The results of LWF’s third annual Icon Tasting – dubbed The Greatest Chardonnay Showdown – were unveiled this morning, ahead of tomorrow’s International Chardonnay Day (21 May). Designed as a benchmark tasting of the world’s leading Chardonnays, the event gathered 18 influential judges, including Jancis Robinson, Dawn Davies MW and Pierpaolo Petrassi MW, for a three-hour double-blind assessment spanning classic and emerging regions, sparkling expressions and differing winemaking styles.
And while Burgundy remains Chardonnay’s spiritual home, it was Australia that dominated the conversation.
Tasmania’s Tolpuddle Vineyard 2023 Chardonnay took the title of Overall Greatest Chardonnay of the World, while fellow Australian producer Vasse Felix also featured prominently in the top 10 with its Heytesbury Chardonnay 2020 from Margaret River. England also secured a major moment, with Danbury Ridge’s Octagon Block Chardonnay 2023 named Best Emerging Region Chardonnay and earning a place among the tasting’s highest-rated wines.
France still held its ground, however. Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 2013 was named Best Classic Region Chardonnay, while Burgundy heavyweights including Domaine Henri Boillot and Domaine François Raveneau featured prominently in the wider line-up.
The final top 10 ended up being evenly split between European and non-European wines, reflecting a category that increasingly refuses to sit neatly within the Old World versus New World boundaries. New Zealand, Switzerland and Italy all made appearances alongside the more expected names.
Sarah Abbott MW, who curated the tasting alongside Ronan Sayburn MS (both pictured), said the results highlighted Chardonnay’s adaptability and growing international confidence.
“This rigorous assessment, undertaken by expert palates, showed that fine Chardonnay is a global language for the best of wine. The top-rated wines, from Australia, England and France, reflect the staggering adaptability of this iconic grape variety,” she said.
Sayburn suggested the tasting also revealed where current stylistic preferences may be heading.
“The results of this tasting offered an interesting snapshot of contemporary Chardonnay preferences rather than a definitive ranking of the world’s greatest wines. Many of the highest-scoring wines were modern Australian examples sealed under screw caps, showing remarkable freshness, precision and consistency,” he said.
The tasting itself was designed to move beyond straight-forward country comparisons. Wines were grouped according to style, terroir, oak influence and heritage, before being served double-blind under examination conditions.
Alongside the headline winners, the tasting also highlighted the growing importance of value within premium Chardonnay. Uruguay’s Familia Deicas Juanico Preludio Barrel Select Lote No 29 2020 topped the Best Value Chardonnay rankings, ahead of wines from South Africa, Australia and Chile.
For the fair, the tasting has quickly become one of the event’s defining set-pieces.
“Now in year three, our annual Icon Tasting is firmly established as a highlight of London Wine Fair,” show boss Hannah Tovey said.
“Our Greatest Chardonnay Showdown has been highly anticipated by both the judging panel and the wider global wine industry. We are delighted for Tolpuddle Vineyard, for their exceptional result, which shines a spotlight on Tasmanian Chardonnay. Thank you to Sarah and Ronan for their superb orchestration and for the brilliant judging panel for their time and palates.”
