Following the Island of Cyprus tasting, held in London last week, Lizzy O’Riordan caught up with Demetri Walters MW to learn more about the emerging region
Much like Georgian and Greek wines, it can seem strange to refer to Cyprus as an ‘emerging’ region when winemaking in the country dates back as early as 3,500 BC. But it’s certainly true that – with the UK consumer and beyond – interest is growing.
With overall exports up by 3% in 2024 compared to 2023, it’s not an exceptionally fast-growing movement. Instead, according to Demetri Walters MW, it’s a steady increase. Wines from Cyprus “are slowly but surely gaining representation in the trade, appearing in the on-trade, and finding shelf space in independent retail,” Walters explained, something which he thinks began in earnest just before Covid.
In a series of masterclasses held at the High Commission of the Republic of Cyprus last week, Walters highlighted the indigenous grapes from the country gaining traction. “I have noticed that it is the unique native varieties, both white and red, that have captured the interest of both the trade and consumers,” Walters told Drinks Retailing.
For white grapes, this includes varieties like Xynisteri, Morokanella, Promara, Spourtiko and Vasilissa. Meanwhile, in reds, Yiannoud, Maratheftiko and Mavro are gaining popularity, both as single varieties and blends.
“These grapes and blends are fashioned from rare varieties that sport great personality. Consumers seem keen to taste ancient, authentic grapes that have been hiding in plain sight,” Walters said.
As is the case in many ancient winemaking countries, the revival of indigenous varieties is exciting to both producers and consumers. “A renewed interest in old vines, high altitude, clay pitharia and discreet and fruit-driven wines of great character,” are among the things Walters named as the most inspiring in modern Cypriot winemaking.
Drawing on the red Mavro grape as an example, Walters explained that the grape was “long over-worked and abused,” having been relegated to a workhorse grape. “That’s changing now with high-altitude plantings, field blends, old vines and other variations.”
Still, Walters said, the domestic market has an interest in international grapes, namely Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Syrah. However, the MW commented that exporters have begun to realise that native grapes are more popular abroad. This is a good thing for the producers because the grapes “cope with heat stress, heat, marked diurnal variation, wind, disease pressure and, of course, drought” far better than international options.
Turning to retailers who may want to stock wines from Cyprus, Walters recommended leaning into this story of change happening across the country. “Now is the time of the small independent producer, the native grapes, the singular terroir, innovation and experimentation,” he said.
“Cyprus tells an ancient story, but one with a new twist. The island can boast co-planted centenarian vines, fields blends, single site expressions, vivid indigenous grapes, clay, pet nats. You name it. It’s all about being unique, distinct and, above all, producing exciting drinkable wine. Cyprus does that in spades.”
