The region looks at ways to make the grape lighter and more balanced
Including three Denominación de Origen (DO) regions – Jumilla, Yecla and Bullas – Murcia in the southeast of Spain has garnered a reputation for its bold, full-bodied red wine serves. This is especially true thanks to one blue-black berry, bursting with flavours of earthiness, blackberry and plum – Monastrell – which makes up approximately 80% of total vines planted in the region.
However, Murcia is looking to widen its reputation, according to Peter Richards MW, who hosted a masterclass on the three DOs in London yesterday. Partly, according to Richards, this is through experimenting with different grapes, with some producers branching out to use whites such as Verdejo, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier or Chardonnay.
“Not all of these are successful, to put it in a diplomatic way,” Richards said. Though there is progress in making fresh whites, evidenced by the two tasted at the masterclass: Barahonda Blanco Organic 2024 from Bodegas Barahonda and Casa de la Ermita Blanco 2024, from the producer of the same name.
Instead, said Richards, the real source of experimentation in Murcia is happening through a reassessment of what the region’s most popular grape can do. On the variety: “Monastrell in the past would mostly be associated with big wines, probably ones that were quite powerful and harvested late,” he said. “The reality is, though, that the region is moving beyond that, which is exciting territory.”
Eager to showcase a lighter style, Richards pointed to the Castaño Ecológico Tinto 2024, made by Bodegas Castaño in Yecla, created with 100% Monastrell. “This wine is fundamentally really fresh and well balanced,” the MW said. “There’s almost something Beaujolais to it.”
Likewise, the Bruma del Estrecho Paraje Marín 2024 from Bodegas Viña Elena, produced in the Jumilla PDO, offers something similarly balanced. “It has a wonderful shape and flow, that they [the producers] make with slopes, so it doesn’t have quite as much sun exposure,” Richards said. “It’s fresh while still having quite a bit of intensity.”
Of course, these advancements don’t mean that the traditional style of Monastrell – known for its fullness and sometimes intense savouriness – isn’t being made. In fact, according to Richards, these wines are still very popular. It’s more that the region is trying to add a wider range of options – something that is increasingly important as some consumers turn away from high-intensity red wines in search of lower-ABV options.
Speaking of the heavier styles – and specifically on the Altos de Luzón 2023 made by Bodegas Luzón in Jumilla – Richards emphasises that they should not be disregarded. “There is a place for bigger styles if they are balanced and thought through.”
There is, the MW finished, no right or wrong style of wine created from the region’s most famous grape. Instead, Richards noted, it’s all about what has energy and a feeling of innovation. “With these Monastrells, they either have it or they don’t. But if I had to put my finger on one thing, it’s that – energy. That’s fundamental.”
Still, it’s impressive to see a region adapting to consumer demands of the time, which include calls for more balance and freshness. With this mindset, Monastrell and the producers who vinify it still have plenty of future ahead.
