As agave spirits such as tequila and mezcal continue to rise in popularity in the UK, Lizzy O’Riordan investigates the nitty gritty of production

No drink is free of ethical implications. Whether it’s through the transportation of bottles of wine across an ocean or the brewing of energy intensive beer, alcohol always causes a degree of destruction. Harvesting agave, however, comes with a unique set of challenges that deepen as the category grows.

It’s a spirit that can only be created with one species of agave, Blue Weber, which means that the increased demand for tequila has led to the spread of monocultures. This is something Gaby Moncada, agave spirits ambassador at Speciality Brands, calls “a real concern”.

“Whenever any species is overexploited, there are inevitable consequences, such as the loss of biodiversity and genetic variety,” Moncada says, adding that situation can create vulnerability to the changing climate. “A monoculture may be efficient in the short term, but it poses serious long-term risks to both the environment and the tequila industry itself,” she explains.

Mitch Wilson, editor of The Tequila Ambassador VO, highlights the work of organisations like the Tequila Interchange Project, as well as individual farmers who are trying to counter the problems by encouraging other species to grow in their fields.

“People on the ground are aware of the issues,” he notes. At the same time, however, as the demand for Blue Weber agave continues, it’s inevitable that some will continue to overplant without adopting other sustainable practices.

The growth of fellow agave-based drink mezcal could offer some relief to biodiversity issues. A smokier alternative, mezcal can be made with more than 30 types of agave, making it far less prone to the same kind of vulnerability. Nonetheless, concerns remain.

Gregory Buda, who launched the Del Suelo mezcal brand this year, explains that “mezcal doesn’t run into the same monoculture issues experienced in tequila”. However, ecological issues can still occur. Alí Rogelio Ramírez, co-founder of the brand, says the main problem with mezcal is that the smoking process uses a lot of wood. “Traditional methods can place pressure on local resources, particularly wood used for roasting and water used in fermentation.”

This is why, according to the team at Del Suelo, it’s vital to be intentional about where materials are sourced. “At our distillery, we use sustainable wood sources and continuously replant agave to preserve balance,” Ramírez says.

This also appeals to consumers, according to Emma Murphy, co-founder of Hacha, an agave-focused bar in London. Especially as the market becomes more saturated, “transparency around the liquid and sustainability credentials is very important, not just aesthetically pleasing brands that don’t really have a story or depth”, she says.

Elsewhere across the world, innovation continues in response to sustainability needs. Phil Lowe, founder of Roho Agave, launched the first agave brand out of Kenya, created with Agave Sisalana. The liquid, Lowe explains, is made with leftovers from the sisal industry, a type of agave locally used to “make rope and natural fabrics”.

Aiming to reduce waste rather than create it, “the sisal we use is normally burned or left to rot, so we are preventing this from happening by turning it into Roho”, Lowe says. Surprising to some, the plant makes a high-quality agave liquid when treated correctly.

“We entered the Agavos Awards competition, judged by an exclusively agave-expert panel, and were awarded the highest award of Double Gold,” Lowe says, referencing the Texas-based competition.

All in all, agave as a category continues to navigate its own ethics as the consumer boom soars. It’s a tough tightrope walk – but one which some producers are mastering. Therefore it remains an exciting space.