Cristóbal Undurraga talks working holistically, Argentina’s capacity for Chardonnay and single vineyards…

When Cristóbal Undurraga – known by friends as Toti – joined Doña Paula as wine director two years ago, he was tasked with focusing on the Argentine winery’s high-end wines. 

According to Undurraga, however, this is somewhat of an impossible task – largely, he explained, because “we want to see a holistic concept” in the vineyards. 

“Sometimes wineries are trying too much to separate entry tiers from top tiers, but we’re trying to do it as a whole,” said Undurraga. This means a focus on sustainable winemaking – drawing from organic, biodynamic and regenerative practices – resulting in naturally higher-quality wines across all price points. 

Of course, it’s true that Doña Paula is taking part in the premiumisation trend, proven by Undurraga’s position. However, according to him, it’s important to treat all the vines with respect, not just those intended to make high-end bottles. 

In terms of premiumisation, Undurraga believes that leaning on this story of provenance is what consumers are most attracted to. “People are looking for an experience in their wines, not just a drink,” he said. “The brand is important, yes, but more people want to know why they’re drinking it. They want the history, or to learn about a connection with the place.” 

Argentina, where Doña Paula is based, already has a strong provenance story – particularly in terms of Malbec. Consumers in the UK (and beyond) understand the relationship between the grape and the country. “People have confidence in the grape variety, and the premium sector is able to take advantage of this,” added Caroline Park, PR for Santa Rita Estates, owner of Doña Paula. 

It’s slightly more challenging to tell an engaging story with less synonymous grapes, Undurraga explained. “We have to prove that we’re more than just Malbec.” However, things are shifting. 

Turning to whites, for example, Undurraga said there are some very exciting Chardonnays coming out of Doña Paula. “In terms of soil, where we are is alluvial soil, which has plenty of rocks and a high content of limestone. We’re making Chardonnays that you could compare with Chablis or good Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. So I think Argentina is making tremendously real quality.” 

One example of this is the Doña Paula Single Vineyard Gualtallary Chardonnay 2024, which was added to The Wine Society’s collection this summer. According to Park, this wine is the pair to the Doña Paula El Alto Single Vineyard Malbec, which is sold in the UK through Waitrose. 

On single vineyard wines, Undurraga said that this is an effective way to tell the story of provenance he previously spoke of. “Even more than titles like Gran Reserva or limited edition, single vineyard for me is the simplest way to communicate in a way that a consumer understands,” he said. 

Engaged consumers, Park furthered, are starting to specifically request single-vineyard wines or ask questions about them, something she perceives as a query about quality – equating it with luxury. “To talk about a place is good,” Undurraga explained simply. 

Elsewhere across the vineyards, Doña Paula continues to welcome tourists to experience its holistic approach to winemaking, something that recently led the winery to win a sustainable tourism award. “Tourists can see not just the vineyard or winery but also walk through our biological corridors, see the birds and leaves, or the vegetables we produce for the restaurant,” said Undurraga. 

Overall, with a big-picture view of winemaking that cares for the land, Undurraga paints a hopeful picture for Doña Paula and Argentina, leaning on the classics but thinking about creating and preserving the future too.